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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end names. But, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small place earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.